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Yard Care
- Thread starter Pipe Line
- Start date
I usually do.........
For yard
The one on the left
For house
We don't have a problem, but we aren't by water. I would look at one of those bug zappers too if it were me and they were bad.
Bifenthrin 7.9F Select | Insecticide
Bifenthrin 7.9F Select Insecticide is used in Lawn Care Nut and Yard Mastery programs primarily for the control of lawn-damaging insects, sod webworms, and army worms. Additionally, it can be used against nuisance pests such as ants, fleas, ticks, mosquitos in the lawn and landscape. Active...
yardmastery.com
This to nuke it now
Quintessential Crabgrass Control | Yard Mastery
Quintessential™ takes quinclorac performance to the next level and is an excellent choice if you are going after crabgrass that has invaded your lawn. This is a selective, post-emergent herbicide that can be safely applied to many types of turf to control a variety of broadleaf and grassy weeds...
yardmastery.com
This to help keep it away in the spring
Prodiamine 65 WDG (alternative - Barricade® 65WDG) | Yard Mastery
Shop Prodiamine 65 WDG a brand alternative to Barricade® 65WDG from Yard Mastery to control crabgrass and 31 other problem weeds including Henbit, Annual, Bluegrass, Knotweed, Foxtail, Chickweed, Goosegrass, Spurge and more at amazing prices now!
yardmastery.com
It might be too late in the season to try getting rid of it.....
AI answer
"Short answer: You can let winter kill crabgrass, but applying a post-emergent now may not be worth it this late in the season.
Detailed Breakdown
1. Crabgrass life cycle
- Crabgrass is an annual weed. That means it germinates in spring, grows through summer, and dies with the first hard frost.
- Once temperatures drop consistently into the mid-30s, crabgrass naturally dies off, leaving behind brown patches.
2. Post-emergent timing
- Post-emergents (like quinclorac or fenoxaprop) are most effective when the weed is actively growing in warm soil temps (above ~60°F).
- By fall, crabgrass is already stressed and starting to die. Spraying now has limited effectiveness and could be a waste of product.
3. Best approach now
- Skip the post-emergent. Let frost kill it off naturally.
- Focus instead on overseeding and fertilization to thicken your turf before winter. A dense lawn next spring is your best defense against crabgrass returning.
4. For next year
- Apply a pre-emergent herbicide (like prodiamine or dithiopyr) in early spring (when soil temps hit ~55°F for several days).
- This stops crabgrass seeds from germinating. Timing is critical—it’s often aligned with when forsythia shrubs bloom in many regions.
✅ Recommendation: Let winter finish off the crabgrass now. Start planning for a pre-emergent in spring and healthy turf practices (mowing high, overseeding, fertilizing) to crowd it out next season."
Yes. For actual crabgrass, a weed killer with quinclorac is probably the easiest option. But quinclorac is ineffective against some other grassy weeds like bahiagrass, goosegrass, or dallisgrass.
Something else that doesn't get mentioned enough is what type your actual turf grass is. What works well for a St. Augustine lawn might kill a Kentucky Bluegrass lawn, and vice versa.
Overseeding in Nebraska this late is a bold move.
But like if I needed to seed some patchy spots, how might I do that now? I've already overseeded but this is a very targeted operation by some concrete i had poured over the summer and some stupid dead lawn circles from some incurable fungal thing (but like 2 so that's easy)
Wait until spring and do the small areas. You typically want at least 45 days before first frost to let the new grass mature.
Do you not buy the theory of throw some seed down right before ground freeze and let in germinate in the spring?
I know. Just how it worked out this year. Not going to miss early September next year.
If you’re not going to put a pre emergent down in the spring, go for it. Pre emergent needs to be applied before those grass seeds are going to germinate. Easier to put your pre emergent down and break up the small area(s) you want to seed later with a garden weasel or something similar and then put your seed down.
Hadn't considered the pre -emergent piece of this. This is why Garrett pays you the big bucks
Following up on this, Didn’t do much to end the year last year.
Going to start the grass pad program this year, when should I put down first application of their program? Based on their timeline it thinking end of this month early April.
Lawn is not in great shape, I don’t think it’s ever had a fertilizing program and this is my first time doing it myself. Do have a decent among of crabgrass I need to get under control and I want the lawn in general to be thicker and healthier but I am a novice at this stuff
Crabgrass drops seeds that germinate in the spring and then dies in the late fall/early winter. Best way to get rid of it is with prevent those seeds from growing with preemergent. Someone else or Google will have to answer when they germinate, but I know it’s based on a soil temp. The preemergent needs to be down before the soil reaches that temp or you’re done.
I can’t tell you about that, but I do my first app of prodiamine at 50/55 degrees soil temp and then again like 8 weeks later.
Usually I nuke it with nitrogen too during that first app to get it growing.
Then 4 weeks later another app of fert. I will also likely do a post emergent here as this likely falls around the Kentucky Derby.
Then at 8 weeks from initial app I do another round of fert and pre emergent.
After this I just spot spray for weeds.
This year is gonna be tricky because I’ll need to grow some grass as I had some work done around my house and have some bare/thin spots because of the work
That's my plan too. Hopefully it can help restore the lawn. I have some weeds that grow in the front yard that kind of took over especially because it's in direct all day sun.
I'll take any advice anyone has
My advice is to honestly just give yourself time and by that I mean 2-3 years at least. That’s 2-3 years of seeding at the right time, aerating when you should, using pre/post emergents effectively. From my experience, a good yard is a marathon.
I took over a pretty crappy yard filled with clover, crabgrass, and dandelions. Tried spot killing constantly one summer but just resorted to killing it all off and starting fresh. Looking back I would’ve done certain sections of the yard each year as I don’t have underground sprinklers and hauling hoses during a drought across two lots was a nightmare. Don’t be afraid to hire your chemical apps out to get things started. Price out different companies and maybe get recommendations that you can look at other yards they do.
I about gave up on my yard last year as I had army worms basically kill off a whole section of my yard in two days. Luckily my fertilizer guy came right away and killed them. It’s since came back and is looking good already.
It was 84 yesterday in NC and got my first checkboard on the front yard. Looks beautiful
pics or gtfo