Faux Sean Callahan said:

Short answer:
Unfortunately, there’s no magic hack to instantly wipe out bindweed—it’s one of the most invasive and persistent weeds out there. But you can get ahead of it with a mix of persistence, targeted herbicide use, and cultural controls that strengthen your lawn against reinvasion.

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Why Bindweed Is So Hard to Kill​

• Deep root system: Roots can reach 10+ feet deep and regrow from tiny fragments. Pulling alone rarely works, since breaking the root usually encourages regrowth.
• Perennial vine: Even if the top growth dies, the underground system stays alive and will re-sprout.
• Prolific spread: Seeds remain viable in soil for decades, and roots can creep into your yard from the adjacent field.

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Control Options​

1.​

• Spot-treat bindweed in your lawn with a selective broadleaf herbicide (products with 2,4-D + dicamba or triclopyr).
• Apply when the weed has lots of leaf surface (late spring–early summer, or again in early fall). The chemical needs to travel down into the roots.
• You’ll likely need several applications per season for 2–3 years.
• Be careful—if bindweed is mixed into your turf, sprays may burn the grass slightly, but grass usually recovers faster than bindweed does.

2.​

• In mulch beds or non-lawn areas, cover bindweed patches with black landscape fabric, thick cardboard, or heavy mulch. Block all sunlight for at least a full season.
• For lawns, keeping grass thick, tall, and healthy helps smother bindweed seedlings. Mow at the higher end of your grass’s recommended height.

3.​

• Hand-pulling is usually frustrating, but if you’re consistent—pulling every few days before it can photosynthesize much—you can weaken the roots over time.
• Trick: Smother patches with a bucket or piece of carpet/tarp after pulling. This starves the root system.

4.​

• For bindweed climbing fences or borders, cut the vines close to the base and immediately paint or dab glyphosate on the fresh cut. This targets the plant without spraying the lawn.

5.​

• Expect this to be a multi-year battle. Bindweed doesn’t disappear after one season.
• Fertilize and overseed your lawn in the fall to keep grass dense.
• Create a buffer strip at the property edge with aggressive plants or groundcovers that can help compete with field bindweed creeping in.

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✅ Bottom line: The fastest route is a mix of selective herbicide spot treatments plus constant suppression (mowing tall grass, smothering patches, cutting & painting in beds). Total eradication takes patience, but with persistence, you can get it to a manageable level.

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Faux Sean Callahan said:

FYI I am just using AI

Yes — Q4 Plus Turf Herbicide can help with bindweed, but it’s not a silver bullet. Used correctly, it gives you a good tool in the fight, especially when combined with other tactics. I’ll break down what Q4 Plus does well, where it might struggle, and how to get the best results in your situation.

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What Q4 Plus Is & Why It’s a Good Choice​

Here are the key active ingredients: quinclorac, sulfentrazone, 2,4-D, and dicamba. (Sod Solutions)

• It’s labeled to control bindweed (often listed as “field bindweed” or “morningglory / creeping” type weeds) among many broadleaf weeds. (natseed.com)
• The “4-in-1” chemistry gives it multiple modes of action, which increases the chance of affecting those deep roots and multiple growing points. (natseed.com)
• It’s post-emergent (so it works after weeds are established), which is useful since your bindweed is already growing. (natseed.com)

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Limitations / Things It Doesn’t Do Perfectly​

• Deep established roots: Even though Q4 Plus will kill a lot of the top growth and weaken the root system, very mature, deep bindweed roots can survive and re-sprout. You’ll often need repeat treatments (spot or broadcast) over a couple of years.
• Timing & weed condition matters: Weeds need to be actively growing. If it’s super hot, dry, or if the bindweed is stressed, herbicides are less effective. (natseed.com)
• Potential damage to lawn: If misapplied (wrong rate, sprayed when grass is stressed or during very hot conditions), you can get some turf injury—yellowing, scorch, etc. The grass often recovers, but it’s a cost. (natseed.com)
• Limited number of broadcast applications: The label limits how many broad broadcast treatments per year you can do safely. You might be able to spot treat more often, but labels need to be followed. (natseed.com)

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Best Practices to Maximize Effectiveness (Hack-Style Tips)​

Since the bindweed is bad and coming from a neighboring field, here are some tweaks to get as much mileage out of Q4 Plus as possible:

Tip	Why It Helps
Apply when bindweed is actively growing (spring or early fall, or after good rains)	The systemic ingredients need leaf / root activity to translocate into the root system.
Spot treat heavily infested patches rather than trying to hit everything at once	Saves chemical, reduces stress to the lawn, and concentrates power where it’s needed.
Multiple applications	Even if you don’t broadcast often, doing sequential spot-applications or treating regrowth helps weak roots over time.
Ensure good moisture before and after application	If soil is dried out, plants are stressed, the herbicide won’t move well; after treatment, some watering (if label allows) helps.
Mow tall / maintain grass vigor	Strong lawn competes better. If you mow short or starve the lawn, bindweed has more chance to get light and re-invade.
Monitoring & retreating	Keep an eye out for regrowth or new shoots, and hit early. Don’t wait until it’s rampant again.

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Verdict​

Yes — Q4 Plus is a solid option for your lawn, if you use it right and consistently. It won’t kill every bit of bindweed in one shot, but over time it will reduce it significantly and help you manage the strain.
If you want, I can pull up a custom treatment plan (dates, rates, environmental cues) for your zone (Chicago / cool-season grass) using Q4 Plus + other tools so you can stay ahead of the bindweed next season. Do you want me to lay that out?

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